Starting your own detailing business is a rather simple process. There are some caveats and information you should be aware of before you move ahead on it. The first one being, is it something you like to do? I ask this because the work involved in detailing a vehicle is labor intensive sometimes. That is unless you plan to build a business and hire all your staff, detailers, etc. In that case, there is no labor for you in the actual polishing, and detailing processes.
What is Automotive Detailing?
Auto detailing is basically performing an extremely thorough cleaning of a vehicle, inside and out. As well as paint restoration and correction. The primary focus of an auto detailer is the paint. Most people associate detailing services with fixing the paint and making it look like new, removing all the imperfections, scratches, swirls, stains, oxidization and more. Many people detail cars for pure enjoyment, some do it as a full time business or are employed as automotive detailers. Either way, there is a general dedication among most professional detailers to acquire the best finish they can on vehicles. An experienced detailer has a wide range of knowledge of the materials, paints, and fabrics in all makes of cars and trucks. They also have a wide range of chemicals used to clean, treat, protect and make any vehicle shine above the rest. They use their knowledge and understanding of the varied surfaces to rejuvenate and protect the entire vehicle. An automotive detailer also has to be able to experiment and learn new techniques, especially as new materials become common among newer vehicles. Painting process, sealants, clear coats, fabric all change over time within the automotive world and a good detailer needs to keep up with these changes.
Starting a New Detailing Business
Starting a detailing business is no different then starting any other small business. There are locations to consider, but generally most new detailers start out of their house or garage. Many also incorporate a mobile server, which requires a few more resources and tools. For starting a new business from home and to work out of the garage, you will need to get a few things sorted out. First, you need to check with your local government on the laws for running a home based business. There are a lot of tax breaks and rules you will need to follow. Paperwork and proper records are probably the biggest part of it. You will also need a business license or registration, depending on the start, country or area you live. Giving you specific information on what forms to complete and where to go would be useless, every area is different. Start with your local city or town government website and go from there. Once you have the paperwork in order , it is time to acquire your startup material and tools.
The Tools and Equipment to Start a Detailing Business
Generally you will not need everything when you first start out, but you will need to have enough product, tools and supplies to meet the basic requirements of detailing a vehicle. The basic things you will be doing are engine, interior and exterior detailing. You will need to have a reasonable budget to start up and buy all your products. You will need at least the following items to be able to do a complete detail of a vehicle
* Vehicle Washing Buckets
* Washing Brush or preferably a micro fiber wash mitt
* Drying towels ( micro fiber only )
* Standard garden hose and spray nozzle
* Vacuum for interior work.
* A variety of spray bottles for your chemicals and cleaners
* Carpet brush - for removing stains, etc.
* Wax applicators
* Rotary or Dual Action Machine Polisher
* 3 to 8 polishing pads for the polisher
* Detailers Automotive Clay Bar
* A variety of polishes, heavy, medium, light - 1 of each to start
* A glaze type, finishing compound
* Wax or sealant product
* All purpose cleaning agent, water soluble
* All purpose detailer spray
* Tire cleaning and detailing product
* At least 30 to 50 small micro fiber cloths for cleaning and buffing
That should get you started with enough tools and products to complete a full vehicle. There are a lot more products you can buy and if you want to experiment and have the budget for it, great, get it all. As you work on vehicles and use the online resources , you will find that you want to try new products. When you have specific problems or issues with vehicles is when you end up picking up new items.
What's Next?
Now you need the customers. Well, if you are just starting out from your home, start spreading the work around to your friends, relatives, etc. You will probably have to show them what you can do, either with pictures or in person. I would recommend doing a few things at first. Go to your local automotive wrecking yard and get your self a used hood, preferably black ( best to practice on ), then set it up in your garage on a bench. Then tape off sections, about 8 sections. Then start using your products on each area, seeing what they can do, etc. Take pictures before and after everything you do. Use those pictures to advertise. Then once you get a section look good... scratch it up. Take your shoe, sand paper, a key, anything. Then see if you can remove the damage. Practice on the hood before you practice on a car. Next, you will want a car to work on. Detail your families cars for free, or start with your own. It really does not take long to figure out what works and what does not work. This also gives you the opportunity to see what other products you are missing.... say a leather cleaner and protectant, or an engine brush, a wheel brush, a trim detailer, glass cleaner, etc.... this list can go on for a long time.
I only briefly highlighted the basic things to start into the automotive detailing business, please take the time to look at all other resources as well. I hope I have provided you with some additional information you can use.
Thursday, April 2, 2009
Automotive Engine Bay Detailing
Detailing your engine bay is a key part of the full automotive detail, it should not be neglected or forgotten about. If you have been to any car show, local car meet or just with a group of car guys, there is always a hood up with people checking out the other guys engine. When it is your turn to show off that great looking car, be prepared for someone to ask you to pop the hood.
Engine bay detailing
This process usually involves cleaning the engine thoroughly with a degreaser, sometimes it has to be done several times. I would start with a pair of latex gloves, you can usually pick up a box at a local automotive supply store for a few bucks. If you get the engine grease and road grim on your hands, it can sometimes be difficult to remove. On heavily soiled engines, I would also take note of the clothing that you are wearing, and watch for splashback. Now that you have prepared yourself, lets move on.
I would not use a solvent based degreaser, for one, it is flammable and the last thing you need is a fire from a hot spot on your engine if you did not let it cool down enough. Start with a water based degreasing agent, these are very common among the detailer line of products. Most of the retail engine degreasers on the market are solvent based, so be careful if you are shopping at your local automotive supply store, they likely won’t have what you need.
First, cover you electrical and vital engine components, then can be cleaned individually later. Tin foil is a great tool in this case, mold wrap it around the components such as the alternator, alarm, battery terminals ( disconnect the battery if you want ), ignition coils, open air filters and intake openings. Then remove any debris, like leaves. Then spray the electrical components with WD40 , which is a water repellent, and make sure your other electrical components are covered with a cling film or tin foil. Then run the engine for a few minutes… make sure that your wrapping will not catch on any fan or moving part, this will warm the engine up a little and make the degreasing work a lot better.
Note that all the wd40, wrap and tin foil applied to your engine component won’t guarantee that nothing will happen, it will only reduce the risk. Some people also do not cover any components, especially on newer engines. This is because 99% of the time, nothing happens from water or chemical cleaners anyways. Most modern engines and components are quite well sealed from water spray… however, if I tell you not to cover it and you damage something then you might blame me. So, to protect myself I am going to say, if you are not sure, cover it up.
Next is to apply your cleaning agent, or degreaser to the engine bay, all areas, let it sit and work for a little while, but do not let it dry. For heavily soiled areas you can brush it with a good engine or automotive body brush. Rinse of the cleaner with a regular garden hose, with very little pressure. If all the grim did not come off, then repeat the process. This is where the water based degreaser helps, since you rinsed then engine off, it will still work. If you used a solvent based cleaner it will not settle on the surface because it is wet and will not mix with water.
You can then clean the wet areas with a towel, preferable a micro fiber cloth and when the engine bay is dry you can detail all the surfaces. Detailing the surfaces can be done with an all purpose detailer, vinyl dressing or rubber and plastic dressing. As with any other automotive surface, spray the detailing solution on a cloth and apply it to your desired surfaces.
Note that most engine bay components are not water proof, then are water resistance. There is a huge difference, avoid high pressure spray into the engine bay. Although in some cases it might be necessary, I warn you now that you could cause severe damage to your engine and it’s electrical components by spraying high pressure water while cleaning it.
Engine bay detailing
This process usually involves cleaning the engine thoroughly with a degreaser, sometimes it has to be done several times. I would start with a pair of latex gloves, you can usually pick up a box at a local automotive supply store for a few bucks. If you get the engine grease and road grim on your hands, it can sometimes be difficult to remove. On heavily soiled engines, I would also take note of the clothing that you are wearing, and watch for splashback. Now that you have prepared yourself, lets move on.
I would not use a solvent based degreaser, for one, it is flammable and the last thing you need is a fire from a hot spot on your engine if you did not let it cool down enough. Start with a water based degreasing agent, these are very common among the detailer line of products. Most of the retail engine degreasers on the market are solvent based, so be careful if you are shopping at your local automotive supply store, they likely won’t have what you need.
First, cover you electrical and vital engine components, then can be cleaned individually later. Tin foil is a great tool in this case, mold wrap it around the components such as the alternator, alarm, battery terminals ( disconnect the battery if you want ), ignition coils, open air filters and intake openings. Then remove any debris, like leaves. Then spray the electrical components with WD40 , which is a water repellent, and make sure your other electrical components are covered with a cling film or tin foil. Then run the engine for a few minutes… make sure that your wrapping will not catch on any fan or moving part, this will warm the engine up a little and make the degreasing work a lot better.
Note that all the wd40, wrap and tin foil applied to your engine component won’t guarantee that nothing will happen, it will only reduce the risk. Some people also do not cover any components, especially on newer engines. This is because 99% of the time, nothing happens from water or chemical cleaners anyways. Most modern engines and components are quite well sealed from water spray… however, if I tell you not to cover it and you damage something then you might blame me. So, to protect myself I am going to say, if you are not sure, cover it up.
Next is to apply your cleaning agent, or degreaser to the engine bay, all areas, let it sit and work for a little while, but do not let it dry. For heavily soiled areas you can brush it with a good engine or automotive body brush. Rinse of the cleaner with a regular garden hose, with very little pressure. If all the grim did not come off, then repeat the process. This is where the water based degreaser helps, since you rinsed then engine off, it will still work. If you used a solvent based cleaner it will not settle on the surface because it is wet and will not mix with water.
You can then clean the wet areas with a towel, preferable a micro fiber cloth and when the engine bay is dry you can detail all the surfaces. Detailing the surfaces can be done with an all purpose detailer, vinyl dressing or rubber and plastic dressing. As with any other automotive surface, spray the detailing solution on a cloth and apply it to your desired surfaces.
Note that most engine bay components are not water proof, then are water resistance. There is a huge difference, avoid high pressure spray into the engine bay. Although in some cases it might be necessary, I warn you now that you could cause severe damage to your engine and it’s electrical components by spraying high pressure water while cleaning it.
Automotive Leather Treatment and Care
Cleaning, treating and detailing leather in your car is a simple process, if you have the right tools and products. Using the wrong products will damage the leather, if not immediately, it will over time and excessive use.
Leather used in Automobiles
Automotive leather is the more delicate and difficult surface to maintain of any vehicle. It ages and wears faster and if not properly cared for it will depreciate the vehicle's value and appearance. Automobile manufacturers define leather as “premium” when it may not be. Top of the line leather is made from the top split of the hide and often, automobile manufacturers will sell bottom split leather ( the more fibrous part of the hide ) as premium. They also treat the leather surfaces with a vinyl or urethane coating. It is sometimes difficult to actually know what you’re actually sitting on.
Automotive Leather Protection and Damage Protection
Once you have badly damaged leather, there is little more you can do other then replacing it, so preventing the damage in the first place is the easiest, cheapest and best way to avoid replacing and recovering your leather seats. You will need to fully clean, hydrate and protect automotive leather upholstery surfaces 3-4 times a year. It is much easier to prevent than it is to correct major problems after the fact.
Leather treatment and preparation ( tanning ) strips the leather of it’s natural oils, part of the process of the manufacturers is to re-oil the leather. This process is a trade secret, but generally speaking, they seal the hides and lock in the necessary fats and oils. Leather is also naturally water absorbing, which means it is also susceptible to loosing that moisture, which is why you need to treat and re-hydrate it. Automotive leather needs to be treated as automotive leather and not equestrian, auto leathers are usually coated with a polyurethane protective layer and pigment. The best protection is a conditioning and re-hydrating product.
Automotive Leather Product Selection
Before using a leather care product, a detailer needs to know the surface they are working on, and whether the product is compatible with the leather. Before deciding on what products to use, you need to ascertain what type of leather finish you have and whether the pigmented leather has a polyurethane covering, uncoated, or finished natural leather. This is critical, as the cleaning / maintenance varies for each type. Testing leather is simple. Scratch it with your nail, if it changes color, it’s unprotected, if it has little effect, then it is protected leather. If water beads on the surface, then it has a protective coating, if it soaks in, then it is probably finished leather. Natural leather has a an inconsistent color and grain pattern, if scratched with your nail it should reveal a lighter color and water drops will soak in and darken the color. Once you determine the type of leather, you can select an appropriate product. Out of all the products, a simple solution is woolite ( 3% ) isopropyl alcohol ( 10% ) and distilled water for the rest. Woolite and alcohol have their draw backs too. I would go with something like leatherique or leather masters products.
Protecting Leather
Protection is an important element in leather care, preventing dirt and grit brought in from the outside to damage and dry out the leather. Its primary purpose is to act as a layer between the leather surface and any contaminants that may settle on it, making maintenance cleaning easier, and also providing protection from ultra violet radiation. My best advise is to research other options and products, test them and then make an objective decision based upon factual information. I would only go with automotive leather care products designed for the polyurethane coated leathers. Leather care is only a small part of the full automotive detailing process, I also do not cover every single aspect of this topic. I will have to post some more specific posts and there is plenty of information to convey.
Leather used in Automobiles
Automotive leather is the more delicate and difficult surface to maintain of any vehicle. It ages and wears faster and if not properly cared for it will depreciate the vehicle's value and appearance. Automobile manufacturers define leather as “premium” when it may not be. Top of the line leather is made from the top split of the hide and often, automobile manufacturers will sell bottom split leather ( the more fibrous part of the hide ) as premium. They also treat the leather surfaces with a vinyl or urethane coating. It is sometimes difficult to actually know what you’re actually sitting on.
Automotive Leather Protection and Damage Protection
Once you have badly damaged leather, there is little more you can do other then replacing it, so preventing the damage in the first place is the easiest, cheapest and best way to avoid replacing and recovering your leather seats. You will need to fully clean, hydrate and protect automotive leather upholstery surfaces 3-4 times a year. It is much easier to prevent than it is to correct major problems after the fact.
Leather treatment and preparation ( tanning ) strips the leather of it’s natural oils, part of the process of the manufacturers is to re-oil the leather. This process is a trade secret, but generally speaking, they seal the hides and lock in the necessary fats and oils. Leather is also naturally water absorbing, which means it is also susceptible to loosing that moisture, which is why you need to treat and re-hydrate it. Automotive leather needs to be treated as automotive leather and not equestrian, auto leathers are usually coated with a polyurethane protective layer and pigment. The best protection is a conditioning and re-hydrating product.
Automotive Leather Product Selection
Before using a leather care product, a detailer needs to know the surface they are working on, and whether the product is compatible with the leather. Before deciding on what products to use, you need to ascertain what type of leather finish you have and whether the pigmented leather has a polyurethane covering, uncoated, or finished natural leather. This is critical, as the cleaning / maintenance varies for each type. Testing leather is simple. Scratch it with your nail, if it changes color, it’s unprotected, if it has little effect, then it is protected leather. If water beads on the surface, then it has a protective coating, if it soaks in, then it is probably finished leather. Natural leather has a an inconsistent color and grain pattern, if scratched with your nail it should reveal a lighter color and water drops will soak in and darken the color. Once you determine the type of leather, you can select an appropriate product. Out of all the products, a simple solution is woolite ( 3% ) isopropyl alcohol ( 10% ) and distilled water for the rest. Woolite and alcohol have their draw backs too. I would go with something like leatherique or leather masters products.
Protecting Leather
Protection is an important element in leather care, preventing dirt and grit brought in from the outside to damage and dry out the leather. Its primary purpose is to act as a layer between the leather surface and any contaminants that may settle on it, making maintenance cleaning easier, and also providing protection from ultra violet radiation. My best advise is to research other options and products, test them and then make an objective decision based upon factual information. I would only go with automotive leather care products designed for the polyurethane coated leathers. Leather care is only a small part of the full automotive detailing process, I also do not cover every single aspect of this topic. I will have to post some more specific posts and there is plenty of information to convey.
Wednesday, April 1, 2009
Automotive Interior Detailing Process
Cleaning and detailing the interior of a vehicle is something that is often neglected by most people. Most of the time people only clean out the garbage, vacuum it quickly and go. The odd time they will shake out the floor mats, but that is the extent of most people’s idea of cleaning the interior of a car. Interior Detailing is a lot more involved and specific.
The interior of your car is a confined space that gets just as much traffic as your entire house might, but accumulates more dirt usually. You are in and out of your car all the time, tracking in dirt, dust, animal hair, odors, etc. You might even have kids who track in 10 times more dirt it seems at times. Eating in your car usually always results in crumbs or spilled drinks and fries. Lets look at the detailing process to fully detail the interior of your car.
First Steps to Interior Detailing
The first task will be to remove all the garbage, papers, etc in the car. Removing all personal items such as shoes, purses, glove box contents, stuff in the trunk, everything. By removing all loose items, from all compartments, floors and seats, you give yourself the room you need to get to all the surfaces to clean and treat them. In some cases, you might also want to remove the front seats, or back seats too. If you have liquid spills that got into the floor, or under the seats, then removing them will make it easier to get to the stains and clean them up. The next step in your preparation is a thorough vacuuming. Make sure to get all loose dirt and particles with the vacuum as you can. The more you can suck up with the vacuum, the less you have to wipe up with a cloth.
Carpet, Fabric and Upholstery Detailing
Detailing your carpet and fabric can be done both by hand or with a machine. Most Detailers use an “extractor” , which is just a fancy word for steam cleaner. The difference in this case is that an extractor is usually smaller, has smaller attachments and is designed specifically for automotive purposes. What this machine does is super heat water and a cleaning solution, then with high or medium pressure is sprayed from a nozzle into the carpet and fabric. Similar to a home steam cleaner, the unit also sucks the solution out of the carpet, along with the dirt and grim. These extractors also have a higher sucker power then a traditional steam cleaner and can remove nearly 100% of the cleaning solution from the fabrics. The machines make fabric cleaning fast, easy and very efficient. The other alternative is to use a carpet cleaner, a cloth and do it all by hand, but you can expect less impressive results. Deep cleaning the fabric by hand is quite a bit harder, but still effective.
Leather, Vinyl and Plastic Detailing
The other surfaces in your car are usually one of the 3, or a combination of each. Cleaning and detailing these surfaces can be done at the same time or individually, depending on the product you choose. Several all-in-one cleaning products on the market today are safe for all interior surfaces. A professional detailer will usually choose a product like this so that they can save time and still effectively clean and detail all interior surfaces at the same time. Some special care might be needed for stains, leather and clear plastic surfaces, but generally, an all purpose detailing cleaner does very well. I will cover how to care for leather in a more detailed post later. Once these surfaces are clean from dirt and stains, you will want to treat them with a protectant and detailing spray. Most detailers refer to this final step of the interior as the detailing stage, where you will use a product that brings out the finish in the surfaces. Usually most people look for the shine or gloss from these products, but most of the time you can dilute the product with water and apply it different ways to attain the shine that you want.
Glass Surface Detailing
One of the last steps in detailing the interior of your vehicle is to clean the glass. I would recommend you leave this step for last, most of the other products you use on the interior might leave a residue or overspray on the glass. Use a good glass cleaner formulated for automotive care. Do not use ammonia based cleaners, like windex, these usually leave a film behind that you cannot see and eventually makes the glass look hazy. Clean both the interior and exterior surfaces of the glass, use a micro fiber towel and you should be left with a crystal clear window. I would also use the same product on the dash gauges and any clear or polished plastic in the interior, it should remove all residue and finger prints left behind.
The interior of your car is a confined space that gets just as much traffic as your entire house might, but accumulates more dirt usually. You are in and out of your car all the time, tracking in dirt, dust, animal hair, odors, etc. You might even have kids who track in 10 times more dirt it seems at times. Eating in your car usually always results in crumbs or spilled drinks and fries. Lets look at the detailing process to fully detail the interior of your car.
First Steps to Interior Detailing
The first task will be to remove all the garbage, papers, etc in the car. Removing all personal items such as shoes, purses, glove box contents, stuff in the trunk, everything. By removing all loose items, from all compartments, floors and seats, you give yourself the room you need to get to all the surfaces to clean and treat them. In some cases, you might also want to remove the front seats, or back seats too. If you have liquid spills that got into the floor, or under the seats, then removing them will make it easier to get to the stains and clean them up. The next step in your preparation is a thorough vacuuming. Make sure to get all loose dirt and particles with the vacuum as you can. The more you can suck up with the vacuum, the less you have to wipe up with a cloth.
Carpet, Fabric and Upholstery Detailing
Detailing your carpet and fabric can be done both by hand or with a machine. Most Detailers use an “extractor” , which is just a fancy word for steam cleaner. The difference in this case is that an extractor is usually smaller, has smaller attachments and is designed specifically for automotive purposes. What this machine does is super heat water and a cleaning solution, then with high or medium pressure is sprayed from a nozzle into the carpet and fabric. Similar to a home steam cleaner, the unit also sucks the solution out of the carpet, along with the dirt and grim. These extractors also have a higher sucker power then a traditional steam cleaner and can remove nearly 100% of the cleaning solution from the fabrics. The machines make fabric cleaning fast, easy and very efficient. The other alternative is to use a carpet cleaner, a cloth and do it all by hand, but you can expect less impressive results. Deep cleaning the fabric by hand is quite a bit harder, but still effective.
Leather, Vinyl and Plastic Detailing
The other surfaces in your car are usually one of the 3, or a combination of each. Cleaning and detailing these surfaces can be done at the same time or individually, depending on the product you choose. Several all-in-one cleaning products on the market today are safe for all interior surfaces. A professional detailer will usually choose a product like this so that they can save time and still effectively clean and detail all interior surfaces at the same time. Some special care might be needed for stains, leather and clear plastic surfaces, but generally, an all purpose detailing cleaner does very well. I will cover how to care for leather in a more detailed post later. Once these surfaces are clean from dirt and stains, you will want to treat them with a protectant and detailing spray. Most detailers refer to this final step of the interior as the detailing stage, where you will use a product that brings out the finish in the surfaces. Usually most people look for the shine or gloss from these products, but most of the time you can dilute the product with water and apply it different ways to attain the shine that you want.
Glass Surface Detailing
One of the last steps in detailing the interior of your vehicle is to clean the glass. I would recommend you leave this step for last, most of the other products you use on the interior might leave a residue or overspray on the glass. Use a good glass cleaner formulated for automotive care. Do not use ammonia based cleaners, like windex, these usually leave a film behind that you cannot see and eventually makes the glass look hazy. Clean both the interior and exterior surfaces of the glass, use a micro fiber towel and you should be left with a crystal clear window. I would also use the same product on the dash gauges and any clear or polished plastic in the interior, it should remove all residue and finger prints left behind.
Automotive Polishing and Waxing
Polishing and detailing your vehicle can be a daunting task. With a little bit of knowledge and the right tools, you can bring the paint and exterior finish of your car back to a better then new look. You can get that show room shine and finish yourself without having to invest the money for a professional detailer to do it for you. Although I am a detailer, I am kinda telling you now not to come see me…. I might loose some business, but that is ok.
Paint Surface Preparation
The first thing that you are going to want to do is prepare the surface for polishing. An improperly cleaned paint surface will have dirt, grim and build up that will cause further scratching when you go to polish it. First step is a proper wash and dry. Use only car wash soap, 2 bucket system. This is having a soap and water solution in one and rinse water in the second. Before each pass, you rinse your mitt, then gather the soapy water, wash a small section, then rinse again. This helps keep the wash mitt clean. Wash the car from top down only. Change your water if needed half way through the process. Next is to use some detailer’s clay and lubricant. This removes the road grim, rail dust that builds up on your. If you run your hand along the surface and it feel rough, you need to use a clay bar. Once that step is complete, you will then need to remove the wax or sealant that was from the previous detailing session. You can use dish soap in this case only, a dawn type soap will remove this build up. Or a paint cleaner polish will also work well.
Exterior Automotive Paint Surface Diagnosis
Polishing the car’s paint surface requires a little diagnosis first. You need to determine that type of paint, single or dual stage, thickness and condition of the paint. Look for the type of scratching, can you catch you nail on it ? if so, then it’s deep and you might need some paint to fill that in first. Filling and wet sanding a scratch is a little more work, but may be necessary if the scratch is through the clear coat and/or paint layer.
Automotive Paint Polishing Process
Once you have determined the level of damage to the paint surface, you can select the tools and products to complete the job. Product selection will be varied, each paint brand, color and type will react differently to polishes you apply, some paints and clear coats are harder then others and need a heavier cut to do the same job as a mild cut on a different car. You should start out with a mild cut and a mild pad, if you do not get the results you want, move to the next heavier pad or product. Start mild and move up to the heavier cuts until you find the combination that removes the scratches and marks in the paint surface. Then work back to the mildest cut and glaze to complete the process. This normally takes between 2 and 4 passes on a single vehicle to go from a dull, scratched surface, to a crystal clear, rich, deep color finish.
Waxing and Sealing the Paint
Once you have polished the paint and removed the imperfections, scratches, halo’s, swirls, etc. Then you can wax or seal it. Waxing a car works very well to improve the look, as does a sealant, however, a sealant will last longer. Expect a good wax to last 4 to 8 weeks, were a sealant can last you 3 to 12 months. Environmental factors and how often you wash your car affect how long each of them will last.
Anyways, detailing your car and polishing it properly will help protect the paint and keep it looking new for years to come.
Paint Surface Preparation
The first thing that you are going to want to do is prepare the surface for polishing. An improperly cleaned paint surface will have dirt, grim and build up that will cause further scratching when you go to polish it. First step is a proper wash and dry. Use only car wash soap, 2 bucket system. This is having a soap and water solution in one and rinse water in the second. Before each pass, you rinse your mitt, then gather the soapy water, wash a small section, then rinse again. This helps keep the wash mitt clean. Wash the car from top down only. Change your water if needed half way through the process. Next is to use some detailer’s clay and lubricant. This removes the road grim, rail dust that builds up on your. If you run your hand along the surface and it feel rough, you need to use a clay bar. Once that step is complete, you will then need to remove the wax or sealant that was from the previous detailing session. You can use dish soap in this case only, a dawn type soap will remove this build up. Or a paint cleaner polish will also work well.
Exterior Automotive Paint Surface Diagnosis
Polishing the car’s paint surface requires a little diagnosis first. You need to determine that type of paint, single or dual stage, thickness and condition of the paint. Look for the type of scratching, can you catch you nail on it ? if so, then it’s deep and you might need some paint to fill that in first. Filling and wet sanding a scratch is a little more work, but may be necessary if the scratch is through the clear coat and/or paint layer.
Automotive Paint Polishing Process
Once you have determined the level of damage to the paint surface, you can select the tools and products to complete the job. Product selection will be varied, each paint brand, color and type will react differently to polishes you apply, some paints and clear coats are harder then others and need a heavier cut to do the same job as a mild cut on a different car. You should start out with a mild cut and a mild pad, if you do not get the results you want, move to the next heavier pad or product. Start mild and move up to the heavier cuts until you find the combination that removes the scratches and marks in the paint surface. Then work back to the mildest cut and glaze to complete the process. This normally takes between 2 and 4 passes on a single vehicle to go from a dull, scratched surface, to a crystal clear, rich, deep color finish.
Waxing and Sealing the Paint
Once you have polished the paint and removed the imperfections, scratches, halo’s, swirls, etc. Then you can wax or seal it. Waxing a car works very well to improve the look, as does a sealant, however, a sealant will last longer. Expect a good wax to last 4 to 8 weeks, were a sealant can last you 3 to 12 months. Environmental factors and how often you wash your car affect how long each of them will last.
Anyways, detailing your car and polishing it properly will help protect the paint and keep it looking new for years to come.
Where automotive paint surface damage comes from.
When it comes to your paint and exterior surfaces of your vehicle, it can get abused if not properly cared for. A well maintained vehicle will always look better and the paint will last longer. The scratches and damage that happen to your paint come from many different sources, even the careless people that brush up against your car in the parking lots. I hate those people.
There are some common things that you should watch for when washing and detailing your own vehicle, unfortunately, many of the scratches you see on your car may have come from you. Here is a list of common causes of scratches to your paint surface.
• Dusting your car off with a car duster and using too much pressure will cause damage to your paint if there is too much dust and dirt. Use very light brushing, or don’t use a duster at all. I personally don’t because if it catches a single grain of sand, it will scratch the paint.
• Wiping a spot of dirt / dust with your hands or finger when you are inspecting the surface. What you are doing is pushing the dirt into the surface with your hand. If you do need to clean a small spot, keep a small micro fiber cloth handy, use a bit of water and wipe it off. Never use your finger, hand or shirt.
• Car-covers. If you put a car-cover over a very dusty / dirty vehicle or the inside of the cover is dirty, you are essentially rubbing the surface with a dirty towel. This is almost like a sandpaper effect over the whole car and you may not notice it right away, but you are putting lots of fine little scratches into the paint surface.
• Wiping the surface with a dry cloth. Again, same problem with the car cover, dry on dry surface does not agree with each other.
• While washing your vehicle and you do not rinse the brush or wash mitt when washing vehicle enough. By rinsing the wash mitt often, it loosens and removes the dirt particles that are caught in it. By removing those particles you prevent the scratches you get from them
• Almost all automated car washes with brushes or using an unsuitable brush to clean the vehicle, remove snow, etc, will all put scratches into the paint surface.
• Using towels or cloths that are in-appropriate for painted surfaces, such as a bath towel, etc. Micro fiber cloths should be the only cloth you use.
• Placing or dragging any object across the surface. Placing your purse on the roof to open the door, trunk, etc. Although you do not intend to drag it, you inadvertently put scratches into the paint. My sister does that all the time, places her purse on the trunk lid, then wonders why her trunk is all scratched up.
• Rinsing your car thoroughly of road grime before drying will prevent scratching when you dry it. If you don’t rinse properly, you leave the contamination behind and rub it into the paint when you dry it off.
• Washing your car with soap that is not real car wash soap, such as dish soap, hair shampoo, etc. those don’t suspend grit / dirt. A proper car wash soap will suspend the dirt particles as you wash it to prevent scratching the surface.
• Mis-use of a water-blade. A Water-blade is like a small squeegee used to dry the surface. You must rinse and wipe off the blade after each pass. I personally don’t trust water-blades and prefer to use a proper drying towel.
• Using insufficient lubrication when using automotive detailer’s clay
• Using a dirty towel (dirt / grit trapped in fibers) or towels and / or applicators that contain polyester (plastic) threads
• Improper tools used when washing paint surface. This is the most common cause of surface scratching.
Most Auto Detailers tend to categorize scratches as "swirls" or “Marring”. Technically, a scratch is a scratch, regardless how they got there, the removal of scratches usually involves a lot of work and some skill.
Later, I will be posting some information on how to properly polish and wax the paint on your vehicle. Detailing the paint is not a one step process, although you might see commercials on TV that tell you it is possible. I am telling you that it is not. Proper paint correction starts with proper tools and techniques and paint correction is usually a multi-step process.
There are some common things that you should watch for when washing and detailing your own vehicle, unfortunately, many of the scratches you see on your car may have come from you. Here is a list of common causes of scratches to your paint surface.
• Dusting your car off with a car duster and using too much pressure will cause damage to your paint if there is too much dust and dirt. Use very light brushing, or don’t use a duster at all. I personally don’t because if it catches a single grain of sand, it will scratch the paint.
• Wiping a spot of dirt / dust with your hands or finger when you are inspecting the surface. What you are doing is pushing the dirt into the surface with your hand. If you do need to clean a small spot, keep a small micro fiber cloth handy, use a bit of water and wipe it off. Never use your finger, hand or shirt.
• Car-covers. If you put a car-cover over a very dusty / dirty vehicle or the inside of the cover is dirty, you are essentially rubbing the surface with a dirty towel. This is almost like a sandpaper effect over the whole car and you may not notice it right away, but you are putting lots of fine little scratches into the paint surface.
• Wiping the surface with a dry cloth. Again, same problem with the car cover, dry on dry surface does not agree with each other.
• While washing your vehicle and you do not rinse the brush or wash mitt when washing vehicle enough. By rinsing the wash mitt often, it loosens and removes the dirt particles that are caught in it. By removing those particles you prevent the scratches you get from them
• Almost all automated car washes with brushes or using an unsuitable brush to clean the vehicle, remove snow, etc, will all put scratches into the paint surface.
• Using towels or cloths that are in-appropriate for painted surfaces, such as a bath towel, etc. Micro fiber cloths should be the only cloth you use.
• Placing or dragging any object across the surface. Placing your purse on the roof to open the door, trunk, etc. Although you do not intend to drag it, you inadvertently put scratches into the paint. My sister does that all the time, places her purse on the trunk lid, then wonders why her trunk is all scratched up.
• Rinsing your car thoroughly of road grime before drying will prevent scratching when you dry it. If you don’t rinse properly, you leave the contamination behind and rub it into the paint when you dry it off.
• Washing your car with soap that is not real car wash soap, such as dish soap, hair shampoo, etc. those don’t suspend grit / dirt. A proper car wash soap will suspend the dirt particles as you wash it to prevent scratching the surface.
• Mis-use of a water-blade. A Water-blade is like a small squeegee used to dry the surface. You must rinse and wipe off the blade after each pass. I personally don’t trust water-blades and prefer to use a proper drying towel.
• Using insufficient lubrication when using automotive detailer’s clay
• Using a dirty towel (dirt / grit trapped in fibers) or towels and / or applicators that contain polyester (plastic) threads
• Improper tools used when washing paint surface. This is the most common cause of surface scratching.
Most Auto Detailers tend to categorize scratches as "swirls" or “Marring”. Technically, a scratch is a scratch, regardless how they got there, the removal of scratches usually involves a lot of work and some skill.
Later, I will be posting some information on how to properly polish and wax the paint on your vehicle. Detailing the paint is not a one step process, although you might see commercials on TV that tell you it is possible. I am telling you that it is not. Proper paint correction starts with proper tools and techniques and paint correction is usually a multi-step process.
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