Starting your own detailing business is a rather simple process. There are some caveats and information you should be aware of before you move ahead on it. The first one being, is it something you like to do? I ask this because the work involved in detailing a vehicle is labor intensive sometimes. That is unless you plan to build a business and hire all your staff, detailers, etc. In that case, there is no labor for you in the actual polishing, and detailing processes.
What is Automotive Detailing?
Auto detailing is basically performing an extremely thorough cleaning of a vehicle, inside and out. As well as paint restoration and correction. The primary focus of an auto detailer is the paint. Most people associate detailing services with fixing the paint and making it look like new, removing all the imperfections, scratches, swirls, stains, oxidization and more. Many people detail cars for pure enjoyment, some do it as a full time business or are employed as automotive detailers. Either way, there is a general dedication among most professional detailers to acquire the best finish they can on vehicles. An experienced detailer has a wide range of knowledge of the materials, paints, and fabrics in all makes of cars and trucks. They also have a wide range of chemicals used to clean, treat, protect and make any vehicle shine above the rest. They use their knowledge and understanding of the varied surfaces to rejuvenate and protect the entire vehicle. An automotive detailer also has to be able to experiment and learn new techniques, especially as new materials become common among newer vehicles. Painting process, sealants, clear coats, fabric all change over time within the automotive world and a good detailer needs to keep up with these changes.
Starting a New Detailing Business
Starting a detailing business is no different then starting any other small business. There are locations to consider, but generally most new detailers start out of their house or garage. Many also incorporate a mobile server, which requires a few more resources and tools. For starting a new business from home and to work out of the garage, you will need to get a few things sorted out. First, you need to check with your local government on the laws for running a home based business. There are a lot of tax breaks and rules you will need to follow. Paperwork and proper records are probably the biggest part of it. You will also need a business license or registration, depending on the start, country or area you live. Giving you specific information on what forms to complete and where to go would be useless, every area is different. Start with your local city or town government website and go from there. Once you have the paperwork in order , it is time to acquire your startup material and tools.
The Tools and Equipment to Start a Detailing Business
Generally you will not need everything when you first start out, but you will need to have enough product, tools and supplies to meet the basic requirements of detailing a vehicle. The basic things you will be doing are engine, interior and exterior detailing. You will need to have a reasonable budget to start up and buy all your products. You will need at least the following items to be able to do a complete detail of a vehicle
* Vehicle Washing Buckets
* Washing Brush or preferably a micro fiber wash mitt
* Drying towels ( micro fiber only )
* Standard garden hose and spray nozzle
* Vacuum for interior work.
* A variety of spray bottles for your chemicals and cleaners
* Carpet brush - for removing stains, etc.
* Wax applicators
* Rotary or Dual Action Machine Polisher
* 3 to 8 polishing pads for the polisher
* Detailers Automotive Clay Bar
* A variety of polishes, heavy, medium, light - 1 of each to start
* A glaze type, finishing compound
* Wax or sealant product
* All purpose cleaning agent, water soluble
* All purpose detailer spray
* Tire cleaning and detailing product
* At least 30 to 50 small micro fiber cloths for cleaning and buffing
That should get you started with enough tools and products to complete a full vehicle. There are a lot more products you can buy and if you want to experiment and have the budget for it, great, get it all. As you work on vehicles and use the online resources , you will find that you want to try new products. When you have specific problems or issues with vehicles is when you end up picking up new items.
What's Next?
Now you need the customers. Well, if you are just starting out from your home, start spreading the work around to your friends, relatives, etc. You will probably have to show them what you can do, either with pictures or in person. I would recommend doing a few things at first. Go to your local automotive wrecking yard and get your self a used hood, preferably black ( best to practice on ), then set it up in your garage on a bench. Then tape off sections, about 8 sections. Then start using your products on each area, seeing what they can do, etc. Take pictures before and after everything you do. Use those pictures to advertise. Then once you get a section look good... scratch it up. Take your shoe, sand paper, a key, anything. Then see if you can remove the damage. Practice on the hood before you practice on a car. Next, you will want a car to work on. Detail your families cars for free, or start with your own. It really does not take long to figure out what works and what does not work. This also gives you the opportunity to see what other products you are missing.... say a leather cleaner and protectant, or an engine brush, a wheel brush, a trim detailer, glass cleaner, etc.... this list can go on for a long time.
I only briefly highlighted the basic things to start into the automotive detailing business, please take the time to look at all other resources as well. I hope I have provided you with some additional information you can use.
Thursday, April 2, 2009
Automotive Engine Bay Detailing
Detailing your engine bay is a key part of the full automotive detail, it should not be neglected or forgotten about. If you have been to any car show, local car meet or just with a group of car guys, there is always a hood up with people checking out the other guys engine. When it is your turn to show off that great looking car, be prepared for someone to ask you to pop the hood.
Engine bay detailing
This process usually involves cleaning the engine thoroughly with a degreaser, sometimes it has to be done several times. I would start with a pair of latex gloves, you can usually pick up a box at a local automotive supply store for a few bucks. If you get the engine grease and road grim on your hands, it can sometimes be difficult to remove. On heavily soiled engines, I would also take note of the clothing that you are wearing, and watch for splashback. Now that you have prepared yourself, lets move on.
I would not use a solvent based degreaser, for one, it is flammable and the last thing you need is a fire from a hot spot on your engine if you did not let it cool down enough. Start with a water based degreasing agent, these are very common among the detailer line of products. Most of the retail engine degreasers on the market are solvent based, so be careful if you are shopping at your local automotive supply store, they likely won’t have what you need.
First, cover you electrical and vital engine components, then can be cleaned individually later. Tin foil is a great tool in this case, mold wrap it around the components such as the alternator, alarm, battery terminals ( disconnect the battery if you want ), ignition coils, open air filters and intake openings. Then remove any debris, like leaves. Then spray the electrical components with WD40 , which is a water repellent, and make sure your other electrical components are covered with a cling film or tin foil. Then run the engine for a few minutes… make sure that your wrapping will not catch on any fan or moving part, this will warm the engine up a little and make the degreasing work a lot better.
Note that all the wd40, wrap and tin foil applied to your engine component won’t guarantee that nothing will happen, it will only reduce the risk. Some people also do not cover any components, especially on newer engines. This is because 99% of the time, nothing happens from water or chemical cleaners anyways. Most modern engines and components are quite well sealed from water spray… however, if I tell you not to cover it and you damage something then you might blame me. So, to protect myself I am going to say, if you are not sure, cover it up.
Next is to apply your cleaning agent, or degreaser to the engine bay, all areas, let it sit and work for a little while, but do not let it dry. For heavily soiled areas you can brush it with a good engine or automotive body brush. Rinse of the cleaner with a regular garden hose, with very little pressure. If all the grim did not come off, then repeat the process. This is where the water based degreaser helps, since you rinsed then engine off, it will still work. If you used a solvent based cleaner it will not settle on the surface because it is wet and will not mix with water.
You can then clean the wet areas with a towel, preferable a micro fiber cloth and when the engine bay is dry you can detail all the surfaces. Detailing the surfaces can be done with an all purpose detailer, vinyl dressing or rubber and plastic dressing. As with any other automotive surface, spray the detailing solution on a cloth and apply it to your desired surfaces.
Note that most engine bay components are not water proof, then are water resistance. There is a huge difference, avoid high pressure spray into the engine bay. Although in some cases it might be necessary, I warn you now that you could cause severe damage to your engine and it’s electrical components by spraying high pressure water while cleaning it.
Engine bay detailing
This process usually involves cleaning the engine thoroughly with a degreaser, sometimes it has to be done several times. I would start with a pair of latex gloves, you can usually pick up a box at a local automotive supply store for a few bucks. If you get the engine grease and road grim on your hands, it can sometimes be difficult to remove. On heavily soiled engines, I would also take note of the clothing that you are wearing, and watch for splashback. Now that you have prepared yourself, lets move on.
I would not use a solvent based degreaser, for one, it is flammable and the last thing you need is a fire from a hot spot on your engine if you did not let it cool down enough. Start with a water based degreasing agent, these are very common among the detailer line of products. Most of the retail engine degreasers on the market are solvent based, so be careful if you are shopping at your local automotive supply store, they likely won’t have what you need.
First, cover you electrical and vital engine components, then can be cleaned individually later. Tin foil is a great tool in this case, mold wrap it around the components such as the alternator, alarm, battery terminals ( disconnect the battery if you want ), ignition coils, open air filters and intake openings. Then remove any debris, like leaves. Then spray the electrical components with WD40 , which is a water repellent, and make sure your other electrical components are covered with a cling film or tin foil. Then run the engine for a few minutes… make sure that your wrapping will not catch on any fan or moving part, this will warm the engine up a little and make the degreasing work a lot better.
Note that all the wd40, wrap and tin foil applied to your engine component won’t guarantee that nothing will happen, it will only reduce the risk. Some people also do not cover any components, especially on newer engines. This is because 99% of the time, nothing happens from water or chemical cleaners anyways. Most modern engines and components are quite well sealed from water spray… however, if I tell you not to cover it and you damage something then you might blame me. So, to protect myself I am going to say, if you are not sure, cover it up.
Next is to apply your cleaning agent, or degreaser to the engine bay, all areas, let it sit and work for a little while, but do not let it dry. For heavily soiled areas you can brush it with a good engine or automotive body brush. Rinse of the cleaner with a regular garden hose, with very little pressure. If all the grim did not come off, then repeat the process. This is where the water based degreaser helps, since you rinsed then engine off, it will still work. If you used a solvent based cleaner it will not settle on the surface because it is wet and will not mix with water.
You can then clean the wet areas with a towel, preferable a micro fiber cloth and when the engine bay is dry you can detail all the surfaces. Detailing the surfaces can be done with an all purpose detailer, vinyl dressing or rubber and plastic dressing. As with any other automotive surface, spray the detailing solution on a cloth and apply it to your desired surfaces.
Note that most engine bay components are not water proof, then are water resistance. There is a huge difference, avoid high pressure spray into the engine bay. Although in some cases it might be necessary, I warn you now that you could cause severe damage to your engine and it’s electrical components by spraying high pressure water while cleaning it.
Automotive Leather Treatment and Care
Cleaning, treating and detailing leather in your car is a simple process, if you have the right tools and products. Using the wrong products will damage the leather, if not immediately, it will over time and excessive use.
Leather used in Automobiles
Automotive leather is the more delicate and difficult surface to maintain of any vehicle. It ages and wears faster and if not properly cared for it will depreciate the vehicle's value and appearance. Automobile manufacturers define leather as “premium” when it may not be. Top of the line leather is made from the top split of the hide and often, automobile manufacturers will sell bottom split leather ( the more fibrous part of the hide ) as premium. They also treat the leather surfaces with a vinyl or urethane coating. It is sometimes difficult to actually know what you’re actually sitting on.
Automotive Leather Protection and Damage Protection
Once you have badly damaged leather, there is little more you can do other then replacing it, so preventing the damage in the first place is the easiest, cheapest and best way to avoid replacing and recovering your leather seats. You will need to fully clean, hydrate and protect automotive leather upholstery surfaces 3-4 times a year. It is much easier to prevent than it is to correct major problems after the fact.
Leather treatment and preparation ( tanning ) strips the leather of it’s natural oils, part of the process of the manufacturers is to re-oil the leather. This process is a trade secret, but generally speaking, they seal the hides and lock in the necessary fats and oils. Leather is also naturally water absorbing, which means it is also susceptible to loosing that moisture, which is why you need to treat and re-hydrate it. Automotive leather needs to be treated as automotive leather and not equestrian, auto leathers are usually coated with a polyurethane protective layer and pigment. The best protection is a conditioning and re-hydrating product.
Automotive Leather Product Selection
Before using a leather care product, a detailer needs to know the surface they are working on, and whether the product is compatible with the leather. Before deciding on what products to use, you need to ascertain what type of leather finish you have and whether the pigmented leather has a polyurethane covering, uncoated, or finished natural leather. This is critical, as the cleaning / maintenance varies for each type. Testing leather is simple. Scratch it with your nail, if it changes color, it’s unprotected, if it has little effect, then it is protected leather. If water beads on the surface, then it has a protective coating, if it soaks in, then it is probably finished leather. Natural leather has a an inconsistent color and grain pattern, if scratched with your nail it should reveal a lighter color and water drops will soak in and darken the color. Once you determine the type of leather, you can select an appropriate product. Out of all the products, a simple solution is woolite ( 3% ) isopropyl alcohol ( 10% ) and distilled water for the rest. Woolite and alcohol have their draw backs too. I would go with something like leatherique or leather masters products.
Protecting Leather
Protection is an important element in leather care, preventing dirt and grit brought in from the outside to damage and dry out the leather. Its primary purpose is to act as a layer between the leather surface and any contaminants that may settle on it, making maintenance cleaning easier, and also providing protection from ultra violet radiation. My best advise is to research other options and products, test them and then make an objective decision based upon factual information. I would only go with automotive leather care products designed for the polyurethane coated leathers. Leather care is only a small part of the full automotive detailing process, I also do not cover every single aspect of this topic. I will have to post some more specific posts and there is plenty of information to convey.
Leather used in Automobiles
Automotive leather is the more delicate and difficult surface to maintain of any vehicle. It ages and wears faster and if not properly cared for it will depreciate the vehicle's value and appearance. Automobile manufacturers define leather as “premium” when it may not be. Top of the line leather is made from the top split of the hide and often, automobile manufacturers will sell bottom split leather ( the more fibrous part of the hide ) as premium. They also treat the leather surfaces with a vinyl or urethane coating. It is sometimes difficult to actually know what you’re actually sitting on.
Automotive Leather Protection and Damage Protection
Once you have badly damaged leather, there is little more you can do other then replacing it, so preventing the damage in the first place is the easiest, cheapest and best way to avoid replacing and recovering your leather seats. You will need to fully clean, hydrate and protect automotive leather upholstery surfaces 3-4 times a year. It is much easier to prevent than it is to correct major problems after the fact.
Leather treatment and preparation ( tanning ) strips the leather of it’s natural oils, part of the process of the manufacturers is to re-oil the leather. This process is a trade secret, but generally speaking, they seal the hides and lock in the necessary fats and oils. Leather is also naturally water absorbing, which means it is also susceptible to loosing that moisture, which is why you need to treat and re-hydrate it. Automotive leather needs to be treated as automotive leather and not equestrian, auto leathers are usually coated with a polyurethane protective layer and pigment. The best protection is a conditioning and re-hydrating product.
Automotive Leather Product Selection
Before using a leather care product, a detailer needs to know the surface they are working on, and whether the product is compatible with the leather. Before deciding on what products to use, you need to ascertain what type of leather finish you have and whether the pigmented leather has a polyurethane covering, uncoated, or finished natural leather. This is critical, as the cleaning / maintenance varies for each type. Testing leather is simple. Scratch it with your nail, if it changes color, it’s unprotected, if it has little effect, then it is protected leather. If water beads on the surface, then it has a protective coating, if it soaks in, then it is probably finished leather. Natural leather has a an inconsistent color and grain pattern, if scratched with your nail it should reveal a lighter color and water drops will soak in and darken the color. Once you determine the type of leather, you can select an appropriate product. Out of all the products, a simple solution is woolite ( 3% ) isopropyl alcohol ( 10% ) and distilled water for the rest. Woolite and alcohol have their draw backs too. I would go with something like leatherique or leather masters products.
Protecting Leather
Protection is an important element in leather care, preventing dirt and grit brought in from the outside to damage and dry out the leather. Its primary purpose is to act as a layer between the leather surface and any contaminants that may settle on it, making maintenance cleaning easier, and also providing protection from ultra violet radiation. My best advise is to research other options and products, test them and then make an objective decision based upon factual information. I would only go with automotive leather care products designed for the polyurethane coated leathers. Leather care is only a small part of the full automotive detailing process, I also do not cover every single aspect of this topic. I will have to post some more specific posts and there is plenty of information to convey.
Wednesday, April 1, 2009
Automotive Interior Detailing Process
Cleaning and detailing the interior of a vehicle is something that is often neglected by most people. Most of the time people only clean out the garbage, vacuum it quickly and go. The odd time they will shake out the floor mats, but that is the extent of most people’s idea of cleaning the interior of a car. Interior Detailing is a lot more involved and specific.
The interior of your car is a confined space that gets just as much traffic as your entire house might, but accumulates more dirt usually. You are in and out of your car all the time, tracking in dirt, dust, animal hair, odors, etc. You might even have kids who track in 10 times more dirt it seems at times. Eating in your car usually always results in crumbs or spilled drinks and fries. Lets look at the detailing process to fully detail the interior of your car.
First Steps to Interior Detailing
The first task will be to remove all the garbage, papers, etc in the car. Removing all personal items such as shoes, purses, glove box contents, stuff in the trunk, everything. By removing all loose items, from all compartments, floors and seats, you give yourself the room you need to get to all the surfaces to clean and treat them. In some cases, you might also want to remove the front seats, or back seats too. If you have liquid spills that got into the floor, or under the seats, then removing them will make it easier to get to the stains and clean them up. The next step in your preparation is a thorough vacuuming. Make sure to get all loose dirt and particles with the vacuum as you can. The more you can suck up with the vacuum, the less you have to wipe up with a cloth.
Carpet, Fabric and Upholstery Detailing
Detailing your carpet and fabric can be done both by hand or with a machine. Most Detailers use an “extractor” , which is just a fancy word for steam cleaner. The difference in this case is that an extractor is usually smaller, has smaller attachments and is designed specifically for automotive purposes. What this machine does is super heat water and a cleaning solution, then with high or medium pressure is sprayed from a nozzle into the carpet and fabric. Similar to a home steam cleaner, the unit also sucks the solution out of the carpet, along with the dirt and grim. These extractors also have a higher sucker power then a traditional steam cleaner and can remove nearly 100% of the cleaning solution from the fabrics. The machines make fabric cleaning fast, easy and very efficient. The other alternative is to use a carpet cleaner, a cloth and do it all by hand, but you can expect less impressive results. Deep cleaning the fabric by hand is quite a bit harder, but still effective.
Leather, Vinyl and Plastic Detailing
The other surfaces in your car are usually one of the 3, or a combination of each. Cleaning and detailing these surfaces can be done at the same time or individually, depending on the product you choose. Several all-in-one cleaning products on the market today are safe for all interior surfaces. A professional detailer will usually choose a product like this so that they can save time and still effectively clean and detail all interior surfaces at the same time. Some special care might be needed for stains, leather and clear plastic surfaces, but generally, an all purpose detailing cleaner does very well. I will cover how to care for leather in a more detailed post later. Once these surfaces are clean from dirt and stains, you will want to treat them with a protectant and detailing spray. Most detailers refer to this final step of the interior as the detailing stage, where you will use a product that brings out the finish in the surfaces. Usually most people look for the shine or gloss from these products, but most of the time you can dilute the product with water and apply it different ways to attain the shine that you want.
Glass Surface Detailing
One of the last steps in detailing the interior of your vehicle is to clean the glass. I would recommend you leave this step for last, most of the other products you use on the interior might leave a residue or overspray on the glass. Use a good glass cleaner formulated for automotive care. Do not use ammonia based cleaners, like windex, these usually leave a film behind that you cannot see and eventually makes the glass look hazy. Clean both the interior and exterior surfaces of the glass, use a micro fiber towel and you should be left with a crystal clear window. I would also use the same product on the dash gauges and any clear or polished plastic in the interior, it should remove all residue and finger prints left behind.
The interior of your car is a confined space that gets just as much traffic as your entire house might, but accumulates more dirt usually. You are in and out of your car all the time, tracking in dirt, dust, animal hair, odors, etc. You might even have kids who track in 10 times more dirt it seems at times. Eating in your car usually always results in crumbs or spilled drinks and fries. Lets look at the detailing process to fully detail the interior of your car.
First Steps to Interior Detailing
The first task will be to remove all the garbage, papers, etc in the car. Removing all personal items such as shoes, purses, glove box contents, stuff in the trunk, everything. By removing all loose items, from all compartments, floors and seats, you give yourself the room you need to get to all the surfaces to clean and treat them. In some cases, you might also want to remove the front seats, or back seats too. If you have liquid spills that got into the floor, or under the seats, then removing them will make it easier to get to the stains and clean them up. The next step in your preparation is a thorough vacuuming. Make sure to get all loose dirt and particles with the vacuum as you can. The more you can suck up with the vacuum, the less you have to wipe up with a cloth.
Carpet, Fabric and Upholstery Detailing
Detailing your carpet and fabric can be done both by hand or with a machine. Most Detailers use an “extractor” , which is just a fancy word for steam cleaner. The difference in this case is that an extractor is usually smaller, has smaller attachments and is designed specifically for automotive purposes. What this machine does is super heat water and a cleaning solution, then with high or medium pressure is sprayed from a nozzle into the carpet and fabric. Similar to a home steam cleaner, the unit also sucks the solution out of the carpet, along with the dirt and grim. These extractors also have a higher sucker power then a traditional steam cleaner and can remove nearly 100% of the cleaning solution from the fabrics. The machines make fabric cleaning fast, easy and very efficient. The other alternative is to use a carpet cleaner, a cloth and do it all by hand, but you can expect less impressive results. Deep cleaning the fabric by hand is quite a bit harder, but still effective.
Leather, Vinyl and Plastic Detailing
The other surfaces in your car are usually one of the 3, or a combination of each. Cleaning and detailing these surfaces can be done at the same time or individually, depending on the product you choose. Several all-in-one cleaning products on the market today are safe for all interior surfaces. A professional detailer will usually choose a product like this so that they can save time and still effectively clean and detail all interior surfaces at the same time. Some special care might be needed for stains, leather and clear plastic surfaces, but generally, an all purpose detailing cleaner does very well. I will cover how to care for leather in a more detailed post later. Once these surfaces are clean from dirt and stains, you will want to treat them with a protectant and detailing spray. Most detailers refer to this final step of the interior as the detailing stage, where you will use a product that brings out the finish in the surfaces. Usually most people look for the shine or gloss from these products, but most of the time you can dilute the product with water and apply it different ways to attain the shine that you want.
Glass Surface Detailing
One of the last steps in detailing the interior of your vehicle is to clean the glass. I would recommend you leave this step for last, most of the other products you use on the interior might leave a residue or overspray on the glass. Use a good glass cleaner formulated for automotive care. Do not use ammonia based cleaners, like windex, these usually leave a film behind that you cannot see and eventually makes the glass look hazy. Clean both the interior and exterior surfaces of the glass, use a micro fiber towel and you should be left with a crystal clear window. I would also use the same product on the dash gauges and any clear or polished plastic in the interior, it should remove all residue and finger prints left behind.
Automotive Polishing and Waxing
Polishing and detailing your vehicle can be a daunting task. With a little bit of knowledge and the right tools, you can bring the paint and exterior finish of your car back to a better then new look. You can get that show room shine and finish yourself without having to invest the money for a professional detailer to do it for you. Although I am a detailer, I am kinda telling you now not to come see me…. I might loose some business, but that is ok.
Paint Surface Preparation
The first thing that you are going to want to do is prepare the surface for polishing. An improperly cleaned paint surface will have dirt, grim and build up that will cause further scratching when you go to polish it. First step is a proper wash and dry. Use only car wash soap, 2 bucket system. This is having a soap and water solution in one and rinse water in the second. Before each pass, you rinse your mitt, then gather the soapy water, wash a small section, then rinse again. This helps keep the wash mitt clean. Wash the car from top down only. Change your water if needed half way through the process. Next is to use some detailer’s clay and lubricant. This removes the road grim, rail dust that builds up on your. If you run your hand along the surface and it feel rough, you need to use a clay bar. Once that step is complete, you will then need to remove the wax or sealant that was from the previous detailing session. You can use dish soap in this case only, a dawn type soap will remove this build up. Or a paint cleaner polish will also work well.
Exterior Automotive Paint Surface Diagnosis
Polishing the car’s paint surface requires a little diagnosis first. You need to determine that type of paint, single or dual stage, thickness and condition of the paint. Look for the type of scratching, can you catch you nail on it ? if so, then it’s deep and you might need some paint to fill that in first. Filling and wet sanding a scratch is a little more work, but may be necessary if the scratch is through the clear coat and/or paint layer.
Automotive Paint Polishing Process
Once you have determined the level of damage to the paint surface, you can select the tools and products to complete the job. Product selection will be varied, each paint brand, color and type will react differently to polishes you apply, some paints and clear coats are harder then others and need a heavier cut to do the same job as a mild cut on a different car. You should start out with a mild cut and a mild pad, if you do not get the results you want, move to the next heavier pad or product. Start mild and move up to the heavier cuts until you find the combination that removes the scratches and marks in the paint surface. Then work back to the mildest cut and glaze to complete the process. This normally takes between 2 and 4 passes on a single vehicle to go from a dull, scratched surface, to a crystal clear, rich, deep color finish.
Waxing and Sealing the Paint
Once you have polished the paint and removed the imperfections, scratches, halo’s, swirls, etc. Then you can wax or seal it. Waxing a car works very well to improve the look, as does a sealant, however, a sealant will last longer. Expect a good wax to last 4 to 8 weeks, were a sealant can last you 3 to 12 months. Environmental factors and how often you wash your car affect how long each of them will last.
Anyways, detailing your car and polishing it properly will help protect the paint and keep it looking new for years to come.
Paint Surface Preparation
The first thing that you are going to want to do is prepare the surface for polishing. An improperly cleaned paint surface will have dirt, grim and build up that will cause further scratching when you go to polish it. First step is a proper wash and dry. Use only car wash soap, 2 bucket system. This is having a soap and water solution in one and rinse water in the second. Before each pass, you rinse your mitt, then gather the soapy water, wash a small section, then rinse again. This helps keep the wash mitt clean. Wash the car from top down only. Change your water if needed half way through the process. Next is to use some detailer’s clay and lubricant. This removes the road grim, rail dust that builds up on your. If you run your hand along the surface and it feel rough, you need to use a clay bar. Once that step is complete, you will then need to remove the wax or sealant that was from the previous detailing session. You can use dish soap in this case only, a dawn type soap will remove this build up. Or a paint cleaner polish will also work well.
Exterior Automotive Paint Surface Diagnosis
Polishing the car’s paint surface requires a little diagnosis first. You need to determine that type of paint, single or dual stage, thickness and condition of the paint. Look for the type of scratching, can you catch you nail on it ? if so, then it’s deep and you might need some paint to fill that in first. Filling and wet sanding a scratch is a little more work, but may be necessary if the scratch is through the clear coat and/or paint layer.
Automotive Paint Polishing Process
Once you have determined the level of damage to the paint surface, you can select the tools and products to complete the job. Product selection will be varied, each paint brand, color and type will react differently to polishes you apply, some paints and clear coats are harder then others and need a heavier cut to do the same job as a mild cut on a different car. You should start out with a mild cut and a mild pad, if you do not get the results you want, move to the next heavier pad or product. Start mild and move up to the heavier cuts until you find the combination that removes the scratches and marks in the paint surface. Then work back to the mildest cut and glaze to complete the process. This normally takes between 2 and 4 passes on a single vehicle to go from a dull, scratched surface, to a crystal clear, rich, deep color finish.
Waxing and Sealing the Paint
Once you have polished the paint and removed the imperfections, scratches, halo’s, swirls, etc. Then you can wax or seal it. Waxing a car works very well to improve the look, as does a sealant, however, a sealant will last longer. Expect a good wax to last 4 to 8 weeks, were a sealant can last you 3 to 12 months. Environmental factors and how often you wash your car affect how long each of them will last.
Anyways, detailing your car and polishing it properly will help protect the paint and keep it looking new for years to come.
Where automotive paint surface damage comes from.
When it comes to your paint and exterior surfaces of your vehicle, it can get abused if not properly cared for. A well maintained vehicle will always look better and the paint will last longer. The scratches and damage that happen to your paint come from many different sources, even the careless people that brush up against your car in the parking lots. I hate those people.
There are some common things that you should watch for when washing and detailing your own vehicle, unfortunately, many of the scratches you see on your car may have come from you. Here is a list of common causes of scratches to your paint surface.
• Dusting your car off with a car duster and using too much pressure will cause damage to your paint if there is too much dust and dirt. Use very light brushing, or don’t use a duster at all. I personally don’t because if it catches a single grain of sand, it will scratch the paint.
• Wiping a spot of dirt / dust with your hands or finger when you are inspecting the surface. What you are doing is pushing the dirt into the surface with your hand. If you do need to clean a small spot, keep a small micro fiber cloth handy, use a bit of water and wipe it off. Never use your finger, hand or shirt.
• Car-covers. If you put a car-cover over a very dusty / dirty vehicle or the inside of the cover is dirty, you are essentially rubbing the surface with a dirty towel. This is almost like a sandpaper effect over the whole car and you may not notice it right away, but you are putting lots of fine little scratches into the paint surface.
• Wiping the surface with a dry cloth. Again, same problem with the car cover, dry on dry surface does not agree with each other.
• While washing your vehicle and you do not rinse the brush or wash mitt when washing vehicle enough. By rinsing the wash mitt often, it loosens and removes the dirt particles that are caught in it. By removing those particles you prevent the scratches you get from them
• Almost all automated car washes with brushes or using an unsuitable brush to clean the vehicle, remove snow, etc, will all put scratches into the paint surface.
• Using towels or cloths that are in-appropriate for painted surfaces, such as a bath towel, etc. Micro fiber cloths should be the only cloth you use.
• Placing or dragging any object across the surface. Placing your purse on the roof to open the door, trunk, etc. Although you do not intend to drag it, you inadvertently put scratches into the paint. My sister does that all the time, places her purse on the trunk lid, then wonders why her trunk is all scratched up.
• Rinsing your car thoroughly of road grime before drying will prevent scratching when you dry it. If you don’t rinse properly, you leave the contamination behind and rub it into the paint when you dry it off.
• Washing your car with soap that is not real car wash soap, such as dish soap, hair shampoo, etc. those don’t suspend grit / dirt. A proper car wash soap will suspend the dirt particles as you wash it to prevent scratching the surface.
• Mis-use of a water-blade. A Water-blade is like a small squeegee used to dry the surface. You must rinse and wipe off the blade after each pass. I personally don’t trust water-blades and prefer to use a proper drying towel.
• Using insufficient lubrication when using automotive detailer’s clay
• Using a dirty towel (dirt / grit trapped in fibers) or towels and / or applicators that contain polyester (plastic) threads
• Improper tools used when washing paint surface. This is the most common cause of surface scratching.
Most Auto Detailers tend to categorize scratches as "swirls" or “Marring”. Technically, a scratch is a scratch, regardless how they got there, the removal of scratches usually involves a lot of work and some skill.
Later, I will be posting some information on how to properly polish and wax the paint on your vehicle. Detailing the paint is not a one step process, although you might see commercials on TV that tell you it is possible. I am telling you that it is not. Proper paint correction starts with proper tools and techniques and paint correction is usually a multi-step process.
There are some common things that you should watch for when washing and detailing your own vehicle, unfortunately, many of the scratches you see on your car may have come from you. Here is a list of common causes of scratches to your paint surface.
• Dusting your car off with a car duster and using too much pressure will cause damage to your paint if there is too much dust and dirt. Use very light brushing, or don’t use a duster at all. I personally don’t because if it catches a single grain of sand, it will scratch the paint.
• Wiping a spot of dirt / dust with your hands or finger when you are inspecting the surface. What you are doing is pushing the dirt into the surface with your hand. If you do need to clean a small spot, keep a small micro fiber cloth handy, use a bit of water and wipe it off. Never use your finger, hand or shirt.
• Car-covers. If you put a car-cover over a very dusty / dirty vehicle or the inside of the cover is dirty, you are essentially rubbing the surface with a dirty towel. This is almost like a sandpaper effect over the whole car and you may not notice it right away, but you are putting lots of fine little scratches into the paint surface.
• Wiping the surface with a dry cloth. Again, same problem with the car cover, dry on dry surface does not agree with each other.
• While washing your vehicle and you do not rinse the brush or wash mitt when washing vehicle enough. By rinsing the wash mitt often, it loosens and removes the dirt particles that are caught in it. By removing those particles you prevent the scratches you get from them
• Almost all automated car washes with brushes or using an unsuitable brush to clean the vehicle, remove snow, etc, will all put scratches into the paint surface.
• Using towels or cloths that are in-appropriate for painted surfaces, such as a bath towel, etc. Micro fiber cloths should be the only cloth you use.
• Placing or dragging any object across the surface. Placing your purse on the roof to open the door, trunk, etc. Although you do not intend to drag it, you inadvertently put scratches into the paint. My sister does that all the time, places her purse on the trunk lid, then wonders why her trunk is all scratched up.
• Rinsing your car thoroughly of road grime before drying will prevent scratching when you dry it. If you don’t rinse properly, you leave the contamination behind and rub it into the paint when you dry it off.
• Washing your car with soap that is not real car wash soap, such as dish soap, hair shampoo, etc. those don’t suspend grit / dirt. A proper car wash soap will suspend the dirt particles as you wash it to prevent scratching the surface.
• Mis-use of a water-blade. A Water-blade is like a small squeegee used to dry the surface. You must rinse and wipe off the blade after each pass. I personally don’t trust water-blades and prefer to use a proper drying towel.
• Using insufficient lubrication when using automotive detailer’s clay
• Using a dirty towel (dirt / grit trapped in fibers) or towels and / or applicators that contain polyester (plastic) threads
• Improper tools used when washing paint surface. This is the most common cause of surface scratching.
Most Auto Detailers tend to categorize scratches as "swirls" or “Marring”. Technically, a scratch is a scratch, regardless how they got there, the removal of scratches usually involves a lot of work and some skill.
Later, I will be posting some information on how to properly polish and wax the paint on your vehicle. Detailing the paint is not a one step process, although you might see commercials on TV that tell you it is possible. I am telling you that it is not. Proper paint correction starts with proper tools and techniques and paint correction is usually a multi-step process.
Tuesday, March 31, 2009
The history of Automotive Detailing
You can't polish a car without a car... so we have to start with the invention of the car. Way back in Germany, 1886, Karl Benz, Gottlieb Daimler and Wilhelm Mayback patented the first car. The DRP 37435 patent is the official birth of the car. A few years later, Gottlieb founded Daimler Motoren Gesellschaft, which became Mercedes Benz.
Let's skip ahead a bit to the Ford Model T, it was painted black for almost 20 years. This paint was based on the lacquer used on earlier horse carriages. By the 1930's an acrylic resin, or enamel was invented, along with an application method using an atomising spray gun. Soon thereafter, a hand made wax was developed in Zurich to protect antiques and lacquers.... well, the inventor soon found that it produced great results on the paint finish of automobiles as well. This wax, made by Anwander is still in use today by Mercedes and Rolls Royce. This wax was brought to America and the formula was changed for mass production and distributed by Turtle Wax Company until Zymol company was founded in 1980. Zymol is sold today. Another popular auto detailing supplier called Menzerna was already developing car care products by the 1950's and again, is still selling top quality products today.
In the 1950's a polisher was discovered by the automotive world, called the cyclo machine and was a huge success in paint restoration and correction. However, just before this, Meguiar's was already making foam pads for the rotary polishers, which are still in use today and are still the best tool for polishing cars. Meguiar's started out as a furniture finishing manufacturer in 1901 and is now on of the leader car care product manufacturers in the world. Also in the 1960's , Klasse ( Car-Lack ) was starting to use polyethylene instead of wax and as of today they produce one of the best car sealants in the business.
By the 1970's, Japan and Europe were using metallic based paints with a clear coat, this clear coat system produced outstanding hardness, gloss and long lasting color. This process migrated to the United States with some problems... many early 70's painted cars were having issues with clear coat failure within 2 or 3 years... it a quality issue.
The 1990's saw a surge in automotive care products and tools, including the random orbital rotary buffer. This machine, produced by Porter-Cable become one of the most used polishing tools in the market, and still is today. By this time, the painting systems had developed into the common 2 stage system with oven drying. This also was the time that a wider variety in paint color started to appear. This is mostly due to an increase in water based paints. This era also introduced us to Detailing Clay, one of my favorite products. This clay bar started in Japan and was used to remove all the contaminants from the paint surface, overspray, dirt, grime, tar, etc. It is also a key product for any professional automotive detailer today.
From 2000 to now has been incredible for the detailing business, many more products, tools and technology has gone into the industry. Micro fibre cloths became widely available and is the primary cloth used by all enthusiasts and professional detailers. Among the established manufacturers of car wax , polish and other various car care products, many new companies started developing and manufacturing their own products. By now, there are over 100 different wax products alone available throughout the world, however, the leaders were still Meguiar's, Menzerna, Klasse, etc. Paint clear coat technology was developing and products such as CeramiClear was made available and was the first to use nanoparticle technology. This product was very durable against day to day abuse, acid rain, UV radiation, etc. The same company also started to produce the coating technology that gave us the pearl, mica, light refracting pigments, color changing effects, aluminium flakes, etc.
The most recent developments include new automotive surface protection that are no wax sealants and fluorine-type clear coats. These new clear coat finishes have been put on luxury model cars, such as Infinity and must be treated differently then most other clear coat finishes. Typical polishing and waxing the newest cars may no longer produce the same results on these high-tech finishes. Consulting the automobile manufacturer is advisable.
Let's skip ahead a bit to the Ford Model T, it was painted black for almost 20 years. This paint was based on the lacquer used on earlier horse carriages. By the 1930's an acrylic resin, or enamel was invented, along with an application method using an atomising spray gun. Soon thereafter, a hand made wax was developed in Zurich to protect antiques and lacquers.... well, the inventor soon found that it produced great results on the paint finish of automobiles as well. This wax, made by Anwander is still in use today by Mercedes and Rolls Royce. This wax was brought to America and the formula was changed for mass production and distributed by Turtle Wax Company until Zymol company was founded in 1980. Zymol is sold today. Another popular auto detailing supplier called Menzerna was already developing car care products by the 1950's and again, is still selling top quality products today.
In the 1950's a polisher was discovered by the automotive world, called the cyclo machine and was a huge success in paint restoration and correction. However, just before this, Meguiar's was already making foam pads for the rotary polishers, which are still in use today and are still the best tool for polishing cars. Meguiar's started out as a furniture finishing manufacturer in 1901 and is now on of the leader car care product manufacturers in the world. Also in the 1960's , Klasse ( Car-Lack ) was starting to use polyethylene instead of wax and as of today they produce one of the best car sealants in the business.
By the 1970's, Japan and Europe were using metallic based paints with a clear coat, this clear coat system produced outstanding hardness, gloss and long lasting color. This process migrated to the United States with some problems... many early 70's painted cars were having issues with clear coat failure within 2 or 3 years... it a quality issue.
The 1990's saw a surge in automotive care products and tools, including the random orbital rotary buffer. This machine, produced by Porter-Cable become one of the most used polishing tools in the market, and still is today. By this time, the painting systems had developed into the common 2 stage system with oven drying. This also was the time that a wider variety in paint color started to appear. This is mostly due to an increase in water based paints. This era also introduced us to Detailing Clay, one of my favorite products. This clay bar started in Japan and was used to remove all the contaminants from the paint surface, overspray, dirt, grime, tar, etc. It is also a key product for any professional automotive detailer today.
From 2000 to now has been incredible for the detailing business, many more products, tools and technology has gone into the industry. Micro fibre cloths became widely available and is the primary cloth used by all enthusiasts and professional detailers. Among the established manufacturers of car wax , polish and other various car care products, many new companies started developing and manufacturing their own products. By now, there are over 100 different wax products alone available throughout the world, however, the leaders were still Meguiar's, Menzerna, Klasse, etc. Paint clear coat technology was developing and products such as CeramiClear was made available and was the first to use nanoparticle technology. This product was very durable against day to day abuse, acid rain, UV radiation, etc. The same company also started to produce the coating technology that gave us the pearl, mica, light refracting pigments, color changing effects, aluminium flakes, etc.
The most recent developments include new automotive surface protection that are no wax sealants and fluorine-type clear coats. These new clear coat finishes have been put on luxury model cars, such as Infinity and must be treated differently then most other clear coat finishes. Typical polishing and waxing the newest cars may no longer produce the same results on these high-tech finishes. Consulting the automobile manufacturer is advisable.
Privacy Policy
Privacy Policy
This website/blog uses third-party advertising companies to serve ads when visiting this site. These third parties may collect and use information (but not your name, address, email address, or telephone number) about your visits to this and other websites in order to provide advertisements about goods and services of interest to you. If you would like more information about this practice and to know your choices about not having this information used by these companies, you can visit Google's Advertising and Privacy page.
If you wish to opt out of Advertising companies tracking and tailoring advertisements to your surfing patterns you may do so at Network Advertising Initiative.
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I respect your privacy and I am committed to safeguarding your privacy while online at this site autodetailingschool.blogspot.com The following discloses how information collected on this Blog.
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If a user wishes to subscribe to my RSS Feeds or Email Updates, I ask for contact information such as name and email address. Users may opt-out of these communications at any time. Your personal information will never be sold or given to a third party. (You will never be spammed by me - ever)
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A cookie is a piece of data stored on the user’s computer tied to information about the user. This blog doesn't use cookies. However, some of my business partners use cookies on this site (for example - advertisers). I can't access or control these cookies once the advertisers have set them.
Links
This Blog contains links to other sites. Please be aware that I am not responsible for the privacy practices of these other sites. I suggest my users to be aware of this when they leave this blog and to read the privacy statements of each and every site that collects personally identifiable information. This privacy statement applies solely to information collected by this Blog.
Advertisers
I use outside ad companies to display ads on this blog. These ads may contain cookies and are collected by the advertising companies and I do not have access to this information. Please check the advertisers websites for respective privacy policies.
Contact Information
If you have any questions or concerns please contact Ryan at contact.franklin @ gmail.com. This privacy policy updated April 2009
This website/blog uses third-party advertising companies to serve ads when visiting this site. These third parties may collect and use information (but not your name, address, email address, or telephone number) about your visits to this and other websites in order to provide advertisements about goods and services of interest to you. If you would like more information about this practice and to know your choices about not having this information used by these companies, you can visit Google's Advertising and Privacy page.
If you wish to opt out of Advertising companies tracking and tailoring advertisements to your surfing patterns you may do so at Network Advertising Initiative.
Google uses the Doubleclick DART cookie to serve ads across it's Adsense network and you can get further information regarding the DART cookie at Doubleclick as well as opt out options at Google's Privacy Center
I respect your privacy and I am committed to safeguarding your privacy while online at this site autodetailingschool.blogspot.com The following discloses how information collected on this Blog.
RSS Feeds and Email Updates
If a user wishes to subscribe to my RSS Feeds or Email Updates, I ask for contact information such as name and email address. Users may opt-out of these communications at any time. Your personal information will never be sold or given to a third party. (You will never be spammed by me - ever)
Log Files and Stats
Like most blogging platforms I use log files, in this case Statcounter. This stores information such as internet protocol (IP) addresses, browser type, internet service provider (ISP), referring, exit and visited pages, platform used, date/time stamp, track user’s movement in the whole, and gather broad demographic information for aggregate use. IP addresses etc. are not linked to personally identifiable information.
Cookies
A cookie is a piece of data stored on the user’s computer tied to information about the user. This blog doesn't use cookies. However, some of my business partners use cookies on this site (for example - advertisers). I can't access or control these cookies once the advertisers have set them.
Links
This Blog contains links to other sites. Please be aware that I am not responsible for the privacy practices of these other sites. I suggest my users to be aware of this when they leave this blog and to read the privacy statements of each and every site that collects personally identifiable information. This privacy statement applies solely to information collected by this Blog.
Advertisers
I use outside ad companies to display ads on this blog. These ads may contain cookies and are collected by the advertising companies and I do not have access to this information. Please check the advertisers websites for respective privacy policies.
Contact Information
If you have any questions or concerns please contact Ryan at contact.franklin @ gmail.com. This privacy policy updated April 2009
Automotive Detailing Supplies and Equipment
Proper car detailing starts with the right detailing supplies. Whether you are just washing your car on the driveway or an experienced professional auto detailer, you are going to want to have the best of the best to work with. The supplies you use will depend on the level of experience you have.
The variety of automotive detailing supplies on the market is sometimes a little overwhelming, so lets look at some basic jobs you would normally do to a car. This applies to both the do-it-yourselfer and the professional.
As an example, let see what you might need for a basic Wash and Dry. You will need the following supplies to properly wash and dry your vehicle
• 2 wash buckets, with a grit guard or tray for each
• Micro fiber wash mit or Micro fiber covered sponge
• Micro Fiber drying towel
• Tire brush
• Wheel cleaning brush
• Water filtration ( optional )
• Drying Blower ( optional )
Most of the detailing supplies are not available at your local automotive supply store, often you will need to purchase them online or find a wholesaler in your area. Finding all the products and equipment from one location is often difficult, but if you find a local wholesaler that carries a wide variety of brands, you can easily get all the supplies you need.
If you are looking to purchase your detailing supplies for home use and are not getting into detailing other vehicles professionally, then a good start would be to check out some local detailing shops. There are professional auto detailers in every major city, and I bet there are a lot more then you think there are. Most of the detailers in the business love what they do, and if you contacted them to discuss detailing, I am sure they would love it. You should ask if you can buy some of the product they use, you will probably get a better deal then if you went and tried to find everything you need yourself. You will probably find that each detailer has a brand or line of products they prefer over others, this is either from experience or what they learned with. Many experienced detailers usually stick to a specific brand for the majority of their products. They will use other suppliers as well for all the specific function products that only select manufacturers produce.
Other detailing supplies that you can buy at your local automotive hardware store are the simple tools and products. Micro fiber cloths and towel are now very common. A few years ago, you would not be able to find a single micro fiber cloth anywhere but specialty stores. Micro fiber drying towels and polishing cloths are the standard for all your auto detailing jobs, don’t get anything else to wash, dry, buff or clean with. The characteristics of micro fiber make them non-scratch and super absorbent. You can also find decent cash wash soap and brushes at your local automotive supply store too. Never use dish soap on your car, only use car wash soap designed for automotive purposes. Dish soap will strip all the protective layers you apply to your car, such as wax, sealant, trim sealers and detailer sprays. Only use it if is your intention to prepare the car for paint correction and polishing, in that case, you want to remove all those waxes and sealers.
The variety of automotive detailing supplies on the market is sometimes a little overwhelming, so lets look at some basic jobs you would normally do to a car. This applies to both the do-it-yourselfer and the professional.
As an example, let see what you might need for a basic Wash and Dry. You will need the following supplies to properly wash and dry your vehicle
• 2 wash buckets, with a grit guard or tray for each
• Micro fiber wash mit or Micro fiber covered sponge
• Micro Fiber drying towel
• Tire brush
• Wheel cleaning brush
• Water filtration ( optional )
• Drying Blower ( optional )
Most of the detailing supplies are not available at your local automotive supply store, often you will need to purchase them online or find a wholesaler in your area. Finding all the products and equipment from one location is often difficult, but if you find a local wholesaler that carries a wide variety of brands, you can easily get all the supplies you need.
If you are looking to purchase your detailing supplies for home use and are not getting into detailing other vehicles professionally, then a good start would be to check out some local detailing shops. There are professional auto detailers in every major city, and I bet there are a lot more then you think there are. Most of the detailers in the business love what they do, and if you contacted them to discuss detailing, I am sure they would love it. You should ask if you can buy some of the product they use, you will probably get a better deal then if you went and tried to find everything you need yourself. You will probably find that each detailer has a brand or line of products they prefer over others, this is either from experience or what they learned with. Many experienced detailers usually stick to a specific brand for the majority of their products. They will use other suppliers as well for all the specific function products that only select manufacturers produce.
Other detailing supplies that you can buy at your local automotive hardware store are the simple tools and products. Micro fiber cloths and towel are now very common. A few years ago, you would not be able to find a single micro fiber cloth anywhere but specialty stores. Micro fiber drying towels and polishing cloths are the standard for all your auto detailing jobs, don’t get anything else to wash, dry, buff or clean with. The characteristics of micro fiber make them non-scratch and super absorbent. You can also find decent cash wash soap and brushes at your local automotive supply store too. Never use dish soap on your car, only use car wash soap designed for automotive purposes. Dish soap will strip all the protective layers you apply to your car, such as wax, sealant, trim sealers and detailer sprays. Only use it if is your intention to prepare the car for paint correction and polishing, in that case, you want to remove all those waxes and sealers.
Monday, March 9, 2009
Can you be a Professional Auto Detailer?
I have been asked so many times that I thought I would just answer the question online. How do you get into auto detailing and how can you do it? It really is not that hard, you just have to know where to start and where to look. I hope I can help you in the right direction if you are thinking about or have already decided to get into the automotive detailing business.
First, we should look at what is auto detailing. Car detailing is really another way to say professional car care or car wash. It does not just cover a simple car wash, it involves many areas of car cleaning. You will see terms such as car polishing, detailing, clay bar, waxing, paint protection, paint care, paint surface repair, scratch repair and removal, surface refinishing, swirl marks and removal, etc, etc. The list goes on and they are all related to automotive detailing.
I would like to show you key areas in professional detailing as follows: Exterior surface care (the paint), Exterior trim care, Engine bay and Interior care. I hope to give you a good idea of the work and detail that is involved in properly detailing a vehicle. By no means is this list complete and there are far more details that go into each process, but you can only discover those details once you get into the work.
Exterior Surface Care ( paint correction )
Before we start, you should probably go look at your own car ( or do it later, whatever ). What I want you to do is just clean off a small area, say 2 feet by 2 feet, unless it is clean enough already. Then I want you to run your hand across the paint surface ( preferably a hand without a ring on it, I don’t want you putting a scratch into it ). I want you to notice how the paint feels... is it silky? is it a little rough ? do you feel small "chunks" or grit on the surface?
So, did you go check? If not, that is fine, You should probably do it later though. I will bet that %95 of you that actually took the time to check your car's paint surface that you probably found it to be a little rough to the touch, especially if you have a car that is any older than 3 months. And I bet that some of you with a brand new car still feel the roughness of the paint.
What is that that you are feeling? It is called "rail dust" in the detailing world. Rail Dust is simply pollution, junk and grim that bonds and sticks to your paint and exterior vehicle surfaces. It is fairly easy to remove, this is how. Pick yourself up a Clay Bar kit, you should be able to find one at any local automotive supply store with the other car care and car wash products. The kit will come with a piece of clay and some spray, which is the lubricant used in conjunction with the clay bay. The spray will often be a quick detailer, which can be purchased separately without the Clay Bar. How you use it is simple, spray a small area, flatten the clay bar into a small disk and rub it down with the clay bar ( you will feel the rail dust coming off of the car , almost gritty sounding ). Once you feel it run along the paint smoothly, wipe dry with a micro fiber cloth. I forgot to mention, you should get a pack of at least 20 to 30 micro fiber cloths, they will be used on everything for you car from now on, all the car washing, drying and detailing will all be done with micro fiber cloths. Everything else is just not good enough in my opinion. Now, back to the paint. Once you completed a section, run your hand across the paint again, and if you have an area right next to it that you did not do, compare them. See a difference now? The clay bar treated side will be silky smooth to the touch and you will probably love it already.... now you need to spend the hour or 2 to finish the rest of the car. This will also work to remove tar if you have any of it on the surface. If you have large amounts, you might want to get some sort of dedicated tar remover. You can use the clay bar on all surfaces, including your chrome, metal, glass, trim, etc. It’s primary function is to remove the pollution from the paint and exterior surfaces ( all surfaces )
Ok, now that you have removed the rail dust from the paint finish, you can go to work at polishing it. If you don't use a clay bar, you can use a chemical polish, such as a paint cleaner, and polish that in and buff, by hand or by machine. That will also remove the rail dust and pollution deposits from the surface, but I prefer the clay bar method. Polishing your car is simple, yet can be complicated when you first start out. Many people will tell you that it is an art. I am telling you that it is just common sense ( but I guess common sense is sometimes not that common ).
What will need to professionally polish your car is a powered polisher ( yes you can do it by hand, but it takes a really long time, it's a pain in the "you know what", and you get a far better result with a machine ). You should start out with a random orbital polisher, or more commonly known as a DA ( Dual Action ) polisher. Dual Action, because it both oscillates and rotates, preventing common "swirl marks" you have probably seen or heard about when someone details or polishes a car. One of the most common ones is a Porter Cable DA , and the most common model right now is a 7424 , do a Google search and you will find a large list of suppliers of automotive detailing equipment like this. You will also need a few polishing pads to start with. You really only need 2 or 3, 1 for cutting ( which is the polishing part ) , and 1 for finishing ( which is the post-polishing part ) , we will discuss that later. You can also get a 3rd one that would fit in between which would sometimes be referred to as a buffing pad. You can get most , if not all of this stuff from Eshine.ca ( in Canada ) , for US residents you have for more suppliers of detailing products then I can list. Canadian residents are more limited in their choices if they do not want to have to worry about duty and shipping charges across the border.
Next, you will need the polishing compounds. This is where the list gets huge, so I am not going to cover everything, just the basics to get your car ( or your customers car ) looking pristine. You are going to mix and match your polishing pads with the polishing compounds, each combination will yield a different cutting ability. A light pad ( buffing or finishing ) with a light compound ( like Meguiar’s speed glaze ) will yield a very minimal cutting power. A cutting pad combined with a heavier compound, such as Meguair’s medium cut compound, you will get a significant amount of cutting power that will remove heavy scratches. I warn you now, that either combination can eat through your paint if you do not use the powered polisher properly. There are a few good video’s on YouTube that show this well, check out part 4 and 5 on how the polisher works. I would start with a simple medium or mild cut compound and a speed glaze. If you feel you might use something else and you have the budget, then go for it.
Lastly, you will want to protect the finish you just spent several hours correcting with the polish. You can either use a sealant or a wax. The difference is both in durability and personal preferences. I prefer a sealant on darker colored vehicles, it works just as well on any other color too. A paint sealant will last anywhere from 2 months to a year, where as a wax usually only lasts up to 6 weeks with normal washing. You will need to re-apply a wax more often. Klasse makes one of the best sealants, but also the hardest to work with. It is very durable , up to 1 year, but is extremely difficult to apply. Klasse sealant must be applied very sparingly, use 1 to 2 drops on an applicator, rub into the paint quickly and then quickly buff dry with a micro fiber cloth. Do only a small 2 foot by 2 foot section at a time and with as little of product as you can. A little goes a very long way with that stuff. There are other great products out there that work well and last long too, such as Wolfgang’s Deep Gloss Sealant.
Exterior Automotive Trim Detailing
This is really to focus all the non-painted exterior surfaces of you vehicle, the trim. This would include the rubber door seals, door trim, bumper trim, chrome and metal surfaces, etc. These areas are often forgotten about, once they are detailed properly, it will really make the exterior look great. You will need an all-metal polish ( to be applied by hand ) that you can use on chrome and other metals. You will also need some sort of trim detailer and the best one I have seen is called Black Wow. Again, with Black Wow, a little goes a long way too. A dressing that you would use on your interior and engine bay will work well on all your exterior trim too, Meguiar’s Hyper Dressing. It is probably one of the better all-purpose detailers and can be applied to all your exterior trim, tires, rims, and engine surfaces.
Engine Bay Detailing
Your engine bay can look like it was new again, just look at this example from the photo gallery from a professional detailer. You can really see a huge difference on the engine bay ( and the rest of the car too ). This engine bay ws detailed with a simple degreasing agent ( several times I might add ) and then treated with a good wash and light brushing. Then it was dressed with an all-purpose detailer on all the surfaces. I think it looks great and the process was fairly simple. You only need an all-purpose cleaner like Kleenol ( there are others and I have found most work very well ), just make sure that you get one that is water based so that you can dilute it for each application. You will also use the same car wash soap you use on the exterior and the same all-purpose dressing you would use to detail the interior/exterior trim and tires with. Simple, quick and done.
Interior Auto Detailing
The interior of your car is a very heavy traffic area, it’s a small space and a lot of dirt and grim come into your car from the outside. It can get dirty very quickly , but also cleans up fairly easy too. The first thing ( which you probably already do ) is to thoroughly vacuum the interior and truck area. Make sure to remove all the floor mats, garbage and everything else that is not tied down. Next , you will want to clean the stains. Another great use for your all-purpose cleaner. Dilute it to proper solution and start cleaning the upholstery , carpets, dash, leather, etc. Next would be the windows, you will need a good non-streaking glass cleaner, do not use vinegar and water or Windex, both are crap and Windex or other similar products do leave a residue behind. Next, is your dressing. You will want to detail the leather , vinyl, plastic and other trim with a protectant / dressing. Your all-purpose Hyper Dressing will be great to use here. Your interior should now be fully detailed and probably smell great too. Another great product for interior surface finishing is Meguiar’s #40 . It has a great shine to it and smells great. I use it on plastic and vinyl surfaces too, most detailers do. It does not do well I found on reflective surfaces ( like the gloss finish of a stereo system deck ), or on the clear plastic of your gauges.
Can you be a professional detailer?
Yes, now you can. I have covered a lot of what goes into a professional detailing service, mostly high level, but you get the idea. Once you know what is involved, you can start with your own vehicle at a very minimal cost. If you really enjoy it, you can take it further and expand it into a successful home based business. You will need to check into your local government for home business guidelines before you decide that is the route you want to take.
Some other online references you might want to review would be some other auto detailing sites or online forums.
Thanks for reading and I hope your venture into the Automotive Detailing Business goes well, or if you decide to just work on your own car, there will be one more great looking car on the road today.
Until Next Time.
First, we should look at what is auto detailing. Car detailing is really another way to say professional car care or car wash. It does not just cover a simple car wash, it involves many areas of car cleaning. You will see terms such as car polishing, detailing, clay bar, waxing, paint protection, paint care, paint surface repair, scratch repair and removal, surface refinishing, swirl marks and removal, etc, etc. The list goes on and they are all related to automotive detailing.
I would like to show you key areas in professional detailing as follows: Exterior surface care (the paint), Exterior trim care, Engine bay and Interior care. I hope to give you a good idea of the work and detail that is involved in properly detailing a vehicle. By no means is this list complete and there are far more details that go into each process, but you can only discover those details once you get into the work.
Exterior Surface Care ( paint correction )
Before we start, you should probably go look at your own car ( or do it later, whatever ). What I want you to do is just clean off a small area, say 2 feet by 2 feet, unless it is clean enough already. Then I want you to run your hand across the paint surface ( preferably a hand without a ring on it, I don’t want you putting a scratch into it ). I want you to notice how the paint feels... is it silky? is it a little rough ? do you feel small "chunks" or grit on the surface?
So, did you go check? If not, that is fine, You should probably do it later though. I will bet that %95 of you that actually took the time to check your car's paint surface that you probably found it to be a little rough to the touch, especially if you have a car that is any older than 3 months. And I bet that some of you with a brand new car still feel the roughness of the paint.
What is that that you are feeling? It is called "rail dust" in the detailing world. Rail Dust is simply pollution, junk and grim that bonds and sticks to your paint and exterior vehicle surfaces. It is fairly easy to remove, this is how. Pick yourself up a Clay Bar kit, you should be able to find one at any local automotive supply store with the other car care and car wash products. The kit will come with a piece of clay and some spray, which is the lubricant used in conjunction with the clay bay. The spray will often be a quick detailer, which can be purchased separately without the Clay Bar. How you use it is simple, spray a small area, flatten the clay bar into a small disk and rub it down with the clay bar ( you will feel the rail dust coming off of the car , almost gritty sounding ). Once you feel it run along the paint smoothly, wipe dry with a micro fiber cloth. I forgot to mention, you should get a pack of at least 20 to 30 micro fiber cloths, they will be used on everything for you car from now on, all the car washing, drying and detailing will all be done with micro fiber cloths. Everything else is just not good enough in my opinion. Now, back to the paint. Once you completed a section, run your hand across the paint again, and if you have an area right next to it that you did not do, compare them. See a difference now? The clay bar treated side will be silky smooth to the touch and you will probably love it already.... now you need to spend the hour or 2 to finish the rest of the car. This will also work to remove tar if you have any of it on the surface. If you have large amounts, you might want to get some sort of dedicated tar remover. You can use the clay bar on all surfaces, including your chrome, metal, glass, trim, etc. It’s primary function is to remove the pollution from the paint and exterior surfaces ( all surfaces )
Ok, now that you have removed the rail dust from the paint finish, you can go to work at polishing it. If you don't use a clay bar, you can use a chemical polish, such as a paint cleaner, and polish that in and buff, by hand or by machine. That will also remove the rail dust and pollution deposits from the surface, but I prefer the clay bar method. Polishing your car is simple, yet can be complicated when you first start out. Many people will tell you that it is an art. I am telling you that it is just common sense ( but I guess common sense is sometimes not that common ).
What will need to professionally polish your car is a powered polisher ( yes you can do it by hand, but it takes a really long time, it's a pain in the "you know what", and you get a far better result with a machine ). You should start out with a random orbital polisher, or more commonly known as a DA ( Dual Action ) polisher. Dual Action, because it both oscillates and rotates, preventing common "swirl marks" you have probably seen or heard about when someone details or polishes a car. One of the most common ones is a Porter Cable DA , and the most common model right now is a 7424 , do a Google search and you will find a large list of suppliers of automotive detailing equipment like this. You will also need a few polishing pads to start with. You really only need 2 or 3, 1 for cutting ( which is the polishing part ) , and 1 for finishing ( which is the post-polishing part ) , we will discuss that later. You can also get a 3rd one that would fit in between which would sometimes be referred to as a buffing pad. You can get most , if not all of this stuff from Eshine.ca ( in Canada ) , for US residents you have for more suppliers of detailing products then I can list. Canadian residents are more limited in their choices if they do not want to have to worry about duty and shipping charges across the border.
Next, you will need the polishing compounds. This is where the list gets huge, so I am not going to cover everything, just the basics to get your car ( or your customers car ) looking pristine. You are going to mix and match your polishing pads with the polishing compounds, each combination will yield a different cutting ability. A light pad ( buffing or finishing ) with a light compound ( like Meguiar’s speed glaze ) will yield a very minimal cutting power. A cutting pad combined with a heavier compound, such as Meguair’s medium cut compound, you will get a significant amount of cutting power that will remove heavy scratches. I warn you now, that either combination can eat through your paint if you do not use the powered polisher properly. There are a few good video’s on YouTube that show this well, check out part 4 and 5 on how the polisher works. I would start with a simple medium or mild cut compound and a speed glaze. If you feel you might use something else and you have the budget, then go for it.
Lastly, you will want to protect the finish you just spent several hours correcting with the polish. You can either use a sealant or a wax. The difference is both in durability and personal preferences. I prefer a sealant on darker colored vehicles, it works just as well on any other color too. A paint sealant will last anywhere from 2 months to a year, where as a wax usually only lasts up to 6 weeks with normal washing. You will need to re-apply a wax more often. Klasse makes one of the best sealants, but also the hardest to work with. It is very durable , up to 1 year, but is extremely difficult to apply. Klasse sealant must be applied very sparingly, use 1 to 2 drops on an applicator, rub into the paint quickly and then quickly buff dry with a micro fiber cloth. Do only a small 2 foot by 2 foot section at a time and with as little of product as you can. A little goes a very long way with that stuff. There are other great products out there that work well and last long too, such as Wolfgang’s Deep Gloss Sealant.
Exterior Automotive Trim Detailing
This is really to focus all the non-painted exterior surfaces of you vehicle, the trim. This would include the rubber door seals, door trim, bumper trim, chrome and metal surfaces, etc. These areas are often forgotten about, once they are detailed properly, it will really make the exterior look great. You will need an all-metal polish ( to be applied by hand ) that you can use on chrome and other metals. You will also need some sort of trim detailer and the best one I have seen is called Black Wow. Again, with Black Wow, a little goes a long way too. A dressing that you would use on your interior and engine bay will work well on all your exterior trim too, Meguiar’s Hyper Dressing. It is probably one of the better all-purpose detailers and can be applied to all your exterior trim, tires, rims, and engine surfaces.
Engine Bay Detailing
Your engine bay can look like it was new again, just look at this example from the photo gallery from a professional detailer. You can really see a huge difference on the engine bay ( and the rest of the car too ). This engine bay ws detailed with a simple degreasing agent ( several times I might add ) and then treated with a good wash and light brushing. Then it was dressed with an all-purpose detailer on all the surfaces. I think it looks great and the process was fairly simple. You only need an all-purpose cleaner like Kleenol ( there are others and I have found most work very well ), just make sure that you get one that is water based so that you can dilute it for each application. You will also use the same car wash soap you use on the exterior and the same all-purpose dressing you would use to detail the interior/exterior trim and tires with. Simple, quick and done.
Interior Auto Detailing
The interior of your car is a very heavy traffic area, it’s a small space and a lot of dirt and grim come into your car from the outside. It can get dirty very quickly , but also cleans up fairly easy too. The first thing ( which you probably already do ) is to thoroughly vacuum the interior and truck area. Make sure to remove all the floor mats, garbage and everything else that is not tied down. Next , you will want to clean the stains. Another great use for your all-purpose cleaner. Dilute it to proper solution and start cleaning the upholstery , carpets, dash, leather, etc. Next would be the windows, you will need a good non-streaking glass cleaner, do not use vinegar and water or Windex, both are crap and Windex or other similar products do leave a residue behind. Next, is your dressing. You will want to detail the leather , vinyl, plastic and other trim with a protectant / dressing. Your all-purpose Hyper Dressing will be great to use here. Your interior should now be fully detailed and probably smell great too. Another great product for interior surface finishing is Meguiar’s #40 . It has a great shine to it and smells great. I use it on plastic and vinyl surfaces too, most detailers do. It does not do well I found on reflective surfaces ( like the gloss finish of a stereo system deck ), or on the clear plastic of your gauges.
Can you be a professional detailer?
Yes, now you can. I have covered a lot of what goes into a professional detailing service, mostly high level, but you get the idea. Once you know what is involved, you can start with your own vehicle at a very minimal cost. If you really enjoy it, you can take it further and expand it into a successful home based business. You will need to check into your local government for home business guidelines before you decide that is the route you want to take.
Some other online references you might want to review would be some other auto detailing sites or online forums.
Thanks for reading and I hope your venture into the Automotive Detailing Business goes well, or if you decide to just work on your own car, there will be one more great looking car on the road today.
Until Next Time.
Wednesday, March 4, 2009
Auto Detailing | Car Care Products | Supplies
How to find the supplies and resources for automotive detailing
What this blog was created to combine all the resources and information about automotive detailing for beginners and professionals. I am going to cover a wide range of subjects from the products, dealers, techniques, equipment, going mobile and how to do it all yourself.
First , we are going to start with some basics. The equipment that you will need. Then I am going to go into some of the products you are going to use, we'll look at a variety of brands and how they compare to each... then we'll see what we need to cover after that.
I will be following up with a post soon on our first topic on being a professional auto detailer.
What this blog was created to combine all the resources and information about automotive detailing for beginners and professionals. I am going to cover a wide range of subjects from the products, dealers, techniques, equipment, going mobile and how to do it all yourself.
First , we are going to start with some basics. The equipment that you will need. Then I am going to go into some of the products you are going to use, we'll look at a variety of brands and how they compare to each... then we'll see what we need to cover after that.
I will be following up with a post soon on our first topic on being a professional auto detailer.
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